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The Temper Fact Checker presents the flashcards on a menswear brand that is hard-rockin’ and gets everybody talkin’. From China’s New Youth inspired rowdy absurdity to a socially unruly hemline… UNROW. Check!

UNROW AW18. courtesy of UNROW.

Who?

Founded by ESMOD Paris 2015 Menswear graduate Zhou Wei, the UNROW brand since its breakout in 2016 carries at its very core the “Carpe Diem” rallying cry. The brand makes a point of sifting through society to dig up its inner emotions, which serve as the primary element for creation.

Realism as the UNROW creative crux, combined with romanticism expression, strengthened by a voluminous consideration for contradiction. The label aims to radiate an affectionate spirit countered by the elemental absurdity that is hardcore fashion design.

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What?

There’s no time like the present so let us seize the autumnal day. The UNROW AW20 collection describes the dichotomy between “Dirty (脏 in Chinese)”, a mixture of complex components, and “Bloom (开花期 in Chinese)”, the signaling of immaculate birth.

The UNROW definition of “Dirty” is that of a negative reflection on the individual and a symbol of instinct. It is not only a description of the individual but also an understanding of human existence. It is a type of decadence, debauchery.

“Bloom” indicates infinite fantasy, whereas “Dirty” is the dawning flower that hides and resides in the depths of “Bloom”.

UNROW AW20. courtesy of UNROW.

UNROW AW20. courtesy of UNROW.

Throughout the AW20 collection, the color scheme perceives “Dirty” through the use of earthy and mustard tones. In terms of fabrics, materials such as environmentally-friendly leather are processed applying techniques such as luster-coating and fold-processing to reflect their complicated mixture.

The understanding of “Bloom”, then, is more reflected in the overall cuts.

UNROW AW20. courtesy of UNROW.

UNROW AW20. courtesy of UNROW.

Inspired by the blooming of plants, the “Bloom” designs feature a secondary cutting through patchwork. The open shoulder and open hem cuts with multi-layered overlaps and focused processing intend to convey the perceptual vision of the blooming period and the rational beauty of casual comfort in clothes.

“Dirty” symbolizes instinct, whilst “Bloom” symbolizes desire — as if it were a chrysalis in a cocoon.

UNROW AW20. courtesy of UNROW.

UNROW AW20. courtesy of UNROW.

When?

In early 2016, Creative Director Zhou (aka Jon) established his UNROW brand.

In 2018, the menswear label participated in Paris Men’s Fashion Week to launch its SS19 collection entitled “Miracle Miracle”.

In January of 2019, UNROW once again attended Paris Men’s Fashion Week to launch its AW19 collection called “Transition(Growth). Edge (Decadence). Imperfect(Degradation). Intervention (Reflection). Addiction (Addiction)”.

UNROW AW19. courtesy of UNROW.

UNROW AW19. courtesy of UNROW.

UNROW AW19. courtesy of UNROW.

UNROW AW19. courtesy of UNROW.

UNROW AW19. courtesy of UNROW.

UNROW AW19. courtesy of UNROW.

In October 2019, UNROW presented its SS20 collection “Déjà Vu” during Shanghai Fashion Week.

The brand has received some much-coveted coverage from ELLE MEN, GQ, Nylon, and VOGUE, among other publications.

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Where?

You can get those grubby little fashion fanatic fingers on the brand’s latest lineups at the following stockists:

China

– Galeries Lafayette
– Juneshan
– INXX national retail store
– MAGMODE retail store
– O.W Multi-brand Store

United States

– POLITIX store (Los Angeles)
– LAZARO SOHO store (New York City)

UNROW SS20. courtesy of UNROW.

UNROW SS20. courtesy of UNROW.

UNROW SS20. courtesy of UNROW.

UNROW SS20. courtesy of UNROW.

UNROW SS20. courtesy of UNROW.

UNROW SS20. courtesy of UNROW.

Why?

As Zhou’s working experience covered menswear, suit customization, and street fashion, he found that China’s younger generations didn’t have much choice when it came to personal style. Zhou realized these younger generations were becoming eager for something that could express their individualities.

A New Culture Movement has entered the minds and cities of contemporary China and just as they were 100 years earlier, China’s post-90s (aka those born after, well, 1990) today are redefining their hopes, dreams, and expectations in life.

Inundated with mobile apps, from Alibaba live-streaming to WeChat Mini Programs and Little Red Book shenanigans, influencing (or “Opinion Leading”) their everyday lives and moves, China’s digital Zeitgeist is altering personalities and behaviorisms at the speed of lightning — at the risk of daily life becoming fleeting. From artisanal fashion design to hip hop and folk culture or LGBTQ and genderless streetwear, China’s post-90s are on the prowl for…

Unruly individual exclusivity and rowdy Youth Power.

 

 

Get a little more rowdy, unruly, UNROW:

Instagram: @unrow_official

 

Dirrty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FEATURED IMAGE: COURTESY OF THE INXX X UNROW MAY 2018 “COHERE” COLLECTION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
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Elsbeth van Paridon
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