Time for the latest fashion fetish in the Temper lookbook! We uncovered this one from the supalicious treasure vault that was the LABELHOOD lineup during Shanghai Fashion Week AW21. Louis Shengtao Chen: Check!
Louis Shengtao Chen is the energetic designer behind the eponymous brand, describing his work as “surreal, delicate and enjoyable.” And yes, Temper alludes!
The Beijing- born designer has worked for Loewe and Kiko Kostadinov, with his bodacious craft highly received by industry from the grassroots. Louis was awarded the Ports 1961 full scholarship, the LVMH Grand Prix Scholarship (2020) and the British Fashion Council BA Scholarship (2019).
Aimed at challenging the tradition notion of glamour, the Chen label attempts to construct a boundary-breaking yet accessible clothing philosophy.
There is more to what meets the eye when it comes to the budding fashion house, with, just throwing out one example here, one of Chen’s collections even fully inspired by the human anatomy after a visit to the La Specola natural history museum in Italy.
Call it Louis-topia, yes this is a play on the LABELHOOD YOUTOPIA deal, but without blowing his own horn, a human feat Temper digs nonetheless, this designer has a mind of his own and approaches design from a more “unorthodox” perspective, the man told us; his recent AW21 collection cementing that very notion.
Dubbed “The Debutante,” Chen’s recent collection was game on when it came to sculpting the contrast between masculine and feminine. Materials ranged from the use of sealing tape, vintage ties and use of mechanical part elements. Chen playfully refreshed the dusty debutante image in a rebellious and forward-thinking way.
Conventional and unconventional processes all impeccably tailored fit for a traditional ball originated back to the unmistakable vibes from the “anything goes” 1980s.
The contrast between masculinity and femininity runs through the entire punky body of work. “It’s not because I am trying to get rid of the gender label, I just simply love the sense of contradiction in design,” Chen explains.
He skillfully mixes hard materials such as mechanical parts, rubber and metal with soft fabrics such as lace, cashmere and silk, creating his very own design philosophy, and a dramatic style of new elegance.
Chen is currently a graduate student at Central Saint Martins in London. However…
After getting physical with his work, one might be forgiven to think that the brand has been on the market for a longer period. In fact, the brand was only officially established in 2021. You got that right, this year.
The LABELHOOD AW21 lineup during the recent Shanghai Fashion Week (April 6-13) marked the first time the brand was doing fashion week. Evah. With the models waking in almost close FROW physical contact fashion, Chen received what one might call rave “never before seen” reviews from onlookers and edditors alike.
If the thrill of “The Debutante” looks to kill is anything to go by, Temper can only imagine the creative ride we have now signed up for with this one for next seasons to come.
Chen enlightens Temper, “I believe luxury is not entirely limited to expensive fabrics or sophisticated standards long set by fashion’s so-called (out-of-date; forgive us) gatekeepers, but everything goes back to the clothing and what they convey.”
The eponymous brand is setting its on standard of luxury through experimenting with color and fabric, conveying fun, sophistication and still remaining inclusive.
The designs represent a new take on couture, mixing it in with high-end ready-to-wear, but never foregoing the essences of quality and individuality.
Join us in worshipping the Louis-topia via:
Weibo: Louis Shengtao Chen
IMAGERY: COURTESY OF Louis Shengtao Chen. Photography by Sky
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