You don’t. Temper presents five more Tasties we picked up along the LABELHOOD AW21 runway during the most recent Shanghai Fashion Week (6-13 April). Time to chomp on their stomp!
FIVEKOH (5KOH) is an independent and wildly original fashion brand, established in Guangzhou in 2019. It was co-founded by designers FIVE and KOH, both of whom have contemporary art theory and visual design backgrounds. Using clothing as a medium, applying color, mood, shape, sound and other elements to mix art, music, dance, and sports together and brew a whole new sense of that tasty edged-out goodness.
FIVEKOH connects with the spiritual world of the new youth through its unique style, follows the ideological pursuit of Asia’s millennials and Gen Z, looks forward to an independent life challenging adversity, and expresses the sense of struggle for self-existence and -expression.
This FIVEKOH AW21 “Scavenger” series explores the enlightenment that the fictional world brings to mankind.
The label rewrites the OG concept of streetwear via geometric structural tailoring, adding mechanical beauty, protective and functional design, and wasteland aesthetic factors. Imagery of doomsday survivors integrated into future thinking, mixed with primitive beauty and outdoor functions, reflect the current dilemma of man’s survival in the face of natural disaster, viruses (myea) and even wars.
The apocalypse has never looked this suave.
Rui Zhou and her genderless body beats.
A bodysuit, as its name suggests, is meant to accentuate the silhouette, creating different layers of tight, seamless tailoring. The suit is also not your “average” statement piece, but rather a utilitarian backdrop for that mind-blowing minidress that risks turning the world into your gynecologist or that vintage oversized jacket yearning for the right partner in crime.
Rui’s knitted (!) body armor comes with a design that twists the garment to amplify its bearers silhouette. Her designs also feature peekaboo cut-outs that explore the space between skin and fabric.
Recent collections have included looks such as a cut-out bodysuit layered on top of a bra and underwear set, creating the optical illusion of a singular garment. Check and double-check!
ATTEMPT. A streetwear brand founded in 2015 creating casual clothing designed for the urban environment, and combining minimalist aesthetics without losing functionality and style. The goal of the label is a high level of materials and product solutions, paying attention to those details that create a technical and rigorous design.
Brand designer Liang Dong, a graduate of the Wuhan Academy of Fine Arts, advocates for the integration of creative expression and culture, and the innovative reorganization of materials and structures as the core of the brand.
Clothing is the carrier that expresses the wearer’s inner world and (usually) resonates with it. In the face of a vastly homogenized clothing market, ATTEMPT chooses to break the solid seal with so–called “avant-garde functionalism.”
YINGPEI STUDIO is a Shanghai-based womenswear brand founded in 2014. The brand draws inspiration from retro aesthetics and reinvents these with a modern touch.
Collections are infused with emotion and passion — Temper can taste the passion, alright!
The carefully thought-out pattern cutting and signature ruffled embellishments embrace a Roaring Twenties 2.0 woman’s introverted yet rebellious charm.
Founder Yueqi Qi graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2018 from the knitwear pathway. She previously worked at CHANEL in Paris as an embroidery designer. In 2019, she debuted the brand’s first collection with LABELHOOD during Shanghai Fashion Week’s SS20 edition.
The label consistently explores the relationship between old and new, tradition and modernity in the throes of China’s lightning-ly altering landscape. Examples:
Handcrafted accessories to bring luck and remind the wearer of home meet the usage of silver representing the skyscrapers and modern cities that were built upon ye ole farm land. Jade elements telling the tales of Ancient China walk the runway hand in hand with the design of a Chinese hot water bottle purse symbolizing a source of warmth and comfort in an otherwise cold and sterile cityscape.
The brand proves an homage to Chinese craftsmanship and a time when the country valued quality and precision over speed and volume.
FYI, the pictures Temper chooses to include in our most humble of opinions best reflect the labels’ overall attitude towards design.
This is not about AW21, per se, but about those who deserve to be on every China Fashion slash right-minded style aficionado’s radar.