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Temper first met up with this then new Parsons MA graduate in October 2018 in the earliest morning drizzle around Williamsburg, Brooklyn, NYC. Given her evolution, it’s high time we present the 5W flashcards of this now most savory one raging into the China Fashion scene like a 2021 bull: Shie Lyu. Check!

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Who?

Shooting for the Shanghai stars, Shie Lyu was born in Chongqing, and studied along a calculated globetrotting path that led her from Australia, to Japan, to New York City.

From the earliest stages of study onward, Shie developed a knack for indulging in unconventional supplies. When she was completing her first MA degree in fashion management at Japan’s Bunka Fashion Graduate University, she brewed biomaterial from glycerin and algae, as well as used 3-D tokens from 100-Yen shops to assemble her garments.

The only MA graduate at New York’s Parsons in 2018 without a BA degree in fashion design, Shie once again emphasized her un-vogue-like approach to fashion, refusing to travel down the industry’s traditional route.

Before the retouch. Snapshot of Shie Lyu's 2018 Parsons graduation collection modeled by Jennifer Liu. Image: Temper archives

Before the retouch. Snapshot of Shie Lyu’s 2018 Parsons graduation collection modeled by Jennifer Liu. Image: Temper archives

What?

Par exemple. For her AW19 collection, the designer took on the role of mathematician, applying exact formulas to create a new modern and romantic couture collection, all the while digging up inspirations from Moholy Nagy’s light display installations previously on show at the Guggenheim Museum. Her SS21 collection took to Shanghai Fashion Week in October 2020, highlighting ornate flapper dress body decorations made of blemished industrial booty such as resin and perspex.

The signature Shie SS21 look rocking the fashion editorial eye on-site at Shanghai Fashion Week thus became an elaborate practice of unusual industrial materials like molded perspex, recycled rubbers, plus heat-shrunken industrial tubing.

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Shie’s style was hailed for its exemplary new take on textiles and contrasting colorful embroidery as well as beading using haute couture techniques. Futuristically and exquisitely so.

The sight of saturated colors, the pursuit of textile innovation, and a sculpturesque slant, are the tierce focal point of Shie’s process, taking the term “upcycling” to its next level.

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When?

Upcycling aside, this architect has since her 2018 graduation from Parsons been upping the resume stakes:

  • Selected as one of the CFDA+ graduates 2018
  • Selected by Eyes on Talents 2018
  • Finalist of the 2019 International Talent Support in Trieste
  • Finalist of the Big Design award 2019
  • Semifinalist of H&M Design Award 2019
  • FashionScout Ones-to-Watch Winner 2019AW

During Shanghai Fashion Week October 2020, Lyu debuted her upcycled collection, with its couture was on display at not SHOWROOM, resulting in an overwhelmingly warm welcome courtesy of the local heavyweights.

Shie Lyu SS21. Image: WWD

Where?

Trading in the Big Apple’s avenue lights for the billboards of her hometown of Chongqing, Shie aims to set op shop (well, studio) in Shanghai this year to keep expanding her clever upcycling skylines, much to the delight of many a Shanghai-based fashion and style follower.

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Why?

Turning trash into treasure. Due to the complex nature of her work, the designer’s showpieces are not (y)ours to purchase.

Shie told WWD during Shanghai Fashion Week, “I want them to be the signature of my brand. I don’t think my brand will ever be 100 percent sustainable, but what I can do is to share and communicate the idea of upcycling with my works — that’s a challenge.”

Fresh, feminine, and futuristic served with a twist on and of elegance. Shie is ready to rage into the Year of the Bull.

 

Keep upping the stakes with Lyu via

Instagram: @shie.lyu

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FEATURED IMAGE: Shie Lyu via WWD
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Elsbeth van Paridon
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